The Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse (Customs Officers’ Path of Cape Corse) is undeniably one of the best coastal paths in Corsica. Stretching across the northern tip of Cape Corse, the 23km coastal path stretches from Centuri in the east to Macinaggio in the west, passing through Barcaggio in the mid-section. Beck and I completed the entire route, starting in Centuri and ending in Macinaggio.
In this guide, we’ll tell you everything you need to know about the Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse.
Table of Contents
About Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse
The Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse is a coastal path located at the very northern tip of Corsica. At this northern end of Cape Corse, you’ll find some of the most special and untouched natural areas on the island. Along the coastal trail, you’ll visit some of the most sublime beaches that are nicely tucked away.
In terms of direction, Beck and I chose to walk from west to east (Centuri to Macinaggio). But, it’s more common to do the walk from east to west (Macinaggio to Centuri). Even more common is just doing a section of Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse. The most popular shortened trail option is the section between Barcaggio and Macinaggio.
Below, we’ll show you the trail specs for the Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse.
Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse Details
- Type: One-way
- Distance: 23km
- Time: 6.5–7.5 hours
- Accumulated elevation gain: 700m
- Difficulty: Hard
- Trailhead: either Centuri or Macinaggio
- Map: AllTrails
Given the distance, accumulated elevation gain, and the trail’s exposed nature, we’ve rated this walk as hard.
Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse Map
At times, trail navigation can be a little tricky, so it’s best to use a map. Beck and I used this AllTrails map to help us stay on track!
How to Get There
The best way to get to either Centuri or Macinaggio is to drive there. Personally, we were staying in Bastia when we did this walk. So, we simply drove our car hire up the coast to Macinaggio. From there, we got a taxi (Transports Scaniglia) from Macinaggio to Centuri to start the walk.
We highly recommend booking your taxi with Transports Scaniglia. We emailed in advance to organise our taxi (sarl_transports_scaniglia@orange.fr). When we did the hike, we were charged €50 for this taxi service.
Public transport access to both Centuri and Macinaggio is very limited. So, getting to either destination via public transport is unreliable and likely time-consuming.
Car Hire
If you don’t have your own car, you should hire one using Discover Cars. Personally, we use Discover Cars and highly recommend them for finding your ideal car hire at an affordable price. Booking online is super easy and the free cancellation policy is great.
To find out more about renting a car with Discover Cars, read our Discover Cars review and Discover Cars Insurance review.
Parking
We found free roadside parking in Macinaggio, opposite Macinaggio Beach.
Apparently, there is also free parking in Centuri at a large car park just south of the port.
Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse: Our Experience
At 23km, Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse isn’t a short walk by any stretch of the imagination. For that reason, we don’t wish to bore you with a tedious step-by-step trail description. Instead, we’ll talk about our experience doing the walk, mentioning some of the highlights en route.
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Taxi From Macinaggio to Centuri
To avoid a mammoth 46km out-and-back walk, we highly recommend car shuffling or taking a taxi so you can complete a point-to-point 23km walk. As mentioned, Beck and I drove to and parked in Macinaggio. So, we got a taxi to Centuri.
The taxi ride itself is quite scenic. The road between Macinaggio and Centuri cuts through the belly of Cape Corse. So, expect a windy ride through hilly terrain. The drive takes about 35 minutes.
Stage 1: Centuri to Barcaggio
Once we arrived at Centuri, we downed some croissants and headed north away from Port de Centuri. Not too long into the walk, you’ll pass a series of stunning coves and bays. During these initial stages of the walk, the track majestically winds and undulates alongside the coast.
Eventually, you’ll hike away from the coast, heading toward the western slope of Monte Maggiore.
Monte Maggiore
Undoubtedly, the toughest section of Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse is the section between Centuri and the western edge of Monte Maggiore.
From Centuri, it’s a steep climb through the western face of the mountain. You’ll pass through pockets of dense forest and shrubland.
Much to our relief, the trail finally begins to descend, heading towards the mountain’s northwest border. You’ll then swing around the northern edge of the mountain, walking along the north edge of Corsica.
Tollare
Along this descent, you’ll enjoy stellar views of a small coastal village called Tollare. There are several vantage points of Tollare, that are truly breathtaking.
Once you pass through Tollare, you’re only a stone’s throw away from Barcaggio.
Stage 2: Barcaggio to Macinaggio
Reaching Barcaggio is a mini-milestone in and of itself as it marks the halfway point of Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse. We took the opportunity to stop for a coffee at a cafe, overlooking the small yet picturesque marina.
Barcaggio Beach (Plage de Barcaggio)
Right around the corner from the marina, you’ll find Barcaggio Beach. It’s quite a long beach, which features those classic beach-loving Corsican cows!
During our 10 day Corsica trip, we had seen a herd of cows on beaches along several coastal trails, including Sentier du Facteur Girolata and Sentier des Douaniers Saint-Florent. Truth be told, seeing herds of cows frolicking along the beach was always a highlight along these Corsican coastal trails!
After hanging out with the cows (but keeping a safe distance), we continued along the coastal walk. Just north of Barcaggio Beach, you’ll enjoy one of the most spectacular coastal areas in Corsica. The white sandstone rocks, mixed with the turquoise water and vibrant green hills, are truly memorable.
Also, from the northern end of the beach, you’ll first start to spy a ruined Genoese tower (called the Tower of Agnellu) in the distance.
Soon enough, you’ll pass the tower and continue along a continuously dreamy stretch of white sandstone coastal cliffline. Beck and I agree that the best part of Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse is this section of the track between Barcaggio Beach and Santa Maria Tower (Tour Santa Maria).
Before arriving at Santa Maria Tower, you’ll first pass further spectacular coastline. This includes passing by other smaller beaches, including Cala Francese Beach (Plage de Cala Francese) and Cala Genovese Beach (Plage de Cala Genovese). As the name suggests, Cala Genovese Beach is home to another Genoese tower, Santa Maria Tower.
Santa Maria Tower
Just north of Cala Genovese Beach, you’ll see the slender, ruined Santa Maria Tower. It’s yet another Corsican coastal Genoese Tower, dating back to the 16th Century. For sure, this is one of the most popular historical attractions along the trail.
Once you pass by the tower and walk to Tamarone Beach (Plage de Tamarone), you’re nearing the final section of the coastal walk. Admittedly, it’s at Tamarone Beach where we started to notice more and more people. So, we didn’t spend too long at that somewhat crowded beach and continued southward.
Macinaggio Beach (Plage de Macinaggio)
From the coastal area around Tamarone Beach, you’ll start to enjoy sweeping views of the village of Macinaggio as well as its beach.
Once you arrive at Macinaggio Beach, which is another long beach, you’re truly on the home stretch. Before you know it, you’ll arrive back at Macinaggio with the satisfaction that you’ve completed the 23km Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse.
This coastal walk was genuinely one of our favourites in Corsica. If you get the chance, we highly recommend it!
Corsica Hiking Guides
- Corsica Hikes Guide: The 17 Best Day Hikes in Corsica
- Sentier des Douaniers Cap Corse – The Ultimate Walking Guide
- Sentier des Douaniers Saint-Florent – The Ultimate Walking Guide
- Pointe de la Revellata – The Complete Walking Guide
- Sentier du Facteur Girolata – The Ultimate Hiking Guide
- Sentier du Château Fort Piana – The Complete Walking Guide
- Calanques de Piana Hike via Sentier Muletier (Piana Mule Trail)
- Capo Rosso Hiking Trail – The Ultimate Guide
- Sentier des Crêtes Ajaccio to Monte Salario Walk – Visitor’s Guide
- Sentier des Douaniers Ajaccio – Pointe de la Parata to Petit Capo
- Capu di Muru (Capo di Muro) – The Complete Walking Guide
- Sentier du Littoral de Campomoro – Tour de Campomoro Walk
- Sentier Littoral des Bruzzi (Sentier des Bruzzi) – Visitor’s Guide
- Capo di Feno Bonifacio Walk (Includes Sentier de Fenu)
- Strada Vecia Madonetta – An Excellent Coastal Walk in Bonifacio
- Campu Rumanilu – Bonifacio Cliff Walk (The Ultimate Guide)
Discover Other Hikes in Corsica
Are you interested in doing other hikes in Corsica? Learn about all the best day hikes in Corsica.
Where to Stay Nearby
There are a few options for staying in or near Cape Corse. If you want to stay as close as possible to either end of the walk, you’ll stay at either Centuri or Macinaggio. Because Macinaggio offers a few more accommodation options, you may prefer to stay there.
As mentioned, personally, Beck and I stayed in Bastia. From Bastia, it takes around an hour to drive to Macinaggio. The benefit of staying in the city of Bastia, at the base of Cape Corse, is that it offers way more accommodation options than the villages further north.
In addition, we were flying out of Bastia International Airport. With that said, Bastia may be a convenient location in that regard, too.
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