Kärpfwanderung: Hiking to Wildmadfurggeli and Chüebodensee

The Kärpfwanderung (Kärpf Hike) is one of the most underrated hikes in the canton of Glarus (Glanerland). Spanning Mettmen and Ämpächli, this superb route features varied natural attractions and excellent facilities at both ends.

In this guide, we'll tell you everything you need to know about the Kärpfwanderung.

The Kärpfwanderung (Kärpf Hike)

The Kärpfwanderung (Kärpf Hike) takes you through Freiberg Kärpf, which is Europe's oldest wildlife reserve. Unlike typical Swiss hiking trails, expect to see wildlife on this hike. We sure did!

In addition to wildlife, the hike features lakes (natural and artificial), epic mountain ranges and ridges, and fantastic facilities. There is definitely a lot to enjoy along this hike!

The area where the hike takes place also falls within the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.

The hike is also known as the Wildmadfurggeli (Wildmad) Hike, as it involves reaching this peak. In addition, the hike is sometimes referred to as the Mettmen to Elm Hike, given they're roughly the endpoints of the one-way trail.

Confusingly, the hike is also promoted and known as the Rundwanderung Wildmad (Wildmad Circular Hike). Technically, it's not a circular hike (it's one-way). But including the public transport involved, it ends up being a circular journey/trip.

Trail Specs

• Type: One-way
• Distance: 9.6km
• Time: 4.5 hours
• Accumulated elevation gain/loss: 720m
• Trailhead: Mettmen Cable Car Station
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Map: AllTrails

Kärpfwanderung Map

To help get your bearings, this is a map of the Kärpfwanderung. As you can see below, the typical route is in green. The trail specs above are related to this route.

However, you can take an alternative route via a lake called Chüebodensee at a junction called Gelb Chopf. This makes the overall hike slightly longer (just over 10km).

On the typical route, from Gelb Chopf, you can enjoy great views of Chüebodensee. So you don't have to do the alternative route in order to see the lake.

However, when Beck and I did the Kärpfwanderung, we had to take the alternative route via Chüebodensee because the usual section between Gelb Chopf and Ämpächli was closed.

How to Do the Kärpfwanderung

Because the Kärpfwanderung is a one-way trail, you'll need to use several public transport services. Follow the steps below to complete the hike.

1. Catch the 544 bus from Schwanden (from the Schwanden GL, Bahnhof bus stop or the Schwanden GL, Däniberg P+R bus stop) to Kies (Niederental).
2. Catch the cable car (Luftseilbahn Kies-Mettmen) from Kies to Mettmen.
3. Complete the Kärpfwanderung from Mettmen to Ämpächli.
4. Catch the cable car (Sportbahnen Elm) from Ämpächli to Elm.
5. Catch the 541 bus from the bus stop outside of Sportbahnen Elm to Schwanden.

Below, we'll go into more detail on these steps.

How to Get to Schwanden

You can drive or take the train to Schwanden.

Drive There

We hired a car from Zurich Airport for our Glarus hiking trip. So we simply drove to Schwanden.

Personally, we were lucky enough to do a car shuffle. Basically, Beck, her parents, our boy and I drove together to Schwanden.

Beck and I were dropped off just outside the Schwanden train station. So, we caught the 544 bus (operated by Sernftalbus) to Kies (Niederental) from the Schwanden GL, Bahnhof bus stop.

Becks' parents and our boy then made their way to Elm. We would all later meet at Ämpächli, where the hike finishes.

Parking is limited at the train station. So, most people driving to Schwanden will park at the Däniberg Park +Ride Car Park, and catch the 544 bus to Kies (Niederental) from this car park's bus stop.

Bear in mind that you can drive to Kies (Niederental). But it's highly discouraged as it's mostly a single-lane winding mountain road frequently used by bus services. Basically, it would be a nightmare to drive unless you luckily timed your trip to avoid an oncoming bus.

That's why this large park and ride car park exists, so you don't have to drive on the road between Schwanden and Kies!

Public Transport

Another way to get to Schwanden is to take the train. You'll alight at Schwanden train station, then catch the 544 bus from the bus stop outside of the train station.

The All-in-One Kärpfwanderung Round Ticket

While you're on the 544 bus, you can buy an all-in-one round ticket that covers all public transport needed to complete this adventure.

The ticket includes the 544 bus from Schwanden to Kies, the cable cars from Kiel to Mettmen and Ämpächli to Elm, as well as the 541 bus from Elm to Schwanden.

For the most up-to-date price, check the official Elm tourism board website. When we did the hike, tickets cost CHF 34 for adults and CHF 17 for children (6–16 years). There are also some travel cards that give you a discounted price.

FYI – you can only buy this ticket directly from the bus driver or at any cable car station. But since this journey generally starts on the 544 bus from Schwanden, most people buy this ticket then.

Why We Didn't Buy This Ticket

As mentioned, we caught the 544 bus from Schwanden to Kiel. Having a Glarnerland Pass meant the bus ride was free.

FYI – you qualify for this pass by staying at a commercial accommodation in the canton of Glarus for at least one night.

Because we were doing a car shuffle, it meant meeting Beck's parents and our boy in Ämpächli after completing the Kärpfwanderung. We'd then catch the cable car down to Elm, where the car was parked. This meant we didn't need to catch any other public transport that day.

Or, even if we weren't car shuffling and needed to get the 541 bus back to Schwanden, it would have been free with the Glanerland Pass.

Overall, for public transport, we only needed to pay for the two cable car rides. Paying for these rides individually worked out slightly cheaper than the all-in-one round ticket. That's why we didn't buy this ticket.

The Kärpfwanderung: Our Experience

Instead of a tedious trail description, we'll share our experience doing the Kärpfwanderung. In doing so, we'll highlight the main attractions.

Schwanden

We did this hike on a Saturday, so Beck and I joined a packed 544 bus to Kies. En route, Beck and I agreed it was the right decision not to drive this mountain road, given how narrow it is (and how bus-dominated)!

Soon enough, we arrived in Kies and caught the cable car up to Mettmen. As with most cable car rides in Switzerland, it was expensive (we paid CHF 16.20 each for a one-way ticket). But it's almost always worth it to be shot up into the mountains, avoiding any unnecessary gruelling uphill hike to just get to the trailhead!

Berghotel Mettmen

Beck and I (in particular) were feeling a bit knackered after a packed week of hiking in Glarus. So we grabbed a coffee and a croissant from Berghotel Mettmen. The views from the restaurant are absolutely stunning!

Mettmensee

After our caffeine hit, we began the Kärpfwanderung! Right away, you'll pass Mettmensee (AKA Lake Garicht), a lovely reservoir.

As you gain elevation along the hike, you'll enjoy sweeping views of the reservoir among the mountains.

Freiberg Kärpf (Kärpf Game Reserve)

After hiking away from Mettmen, you'll soon enter more rugged, wild terrain. In this part of the Kärpf Game Reserve, you're most likely to see wildlife.

Beck and I were lucky to see marmots and chamois. We also noticed an abundance of wild blueberries.

After winding through the reserve, we soon arrived at Vorder Matt. At this peak, facing northwards, you'll enjoy sweeping views of the mountain ranges. From Vorder Matt, you're not too far away from Wildmadfurggeli.

Wildmadfurggeli and Wildmadseeli

At Wildmadfurggeli (2,292m), you'll enjoy 360-degree views of the surrounding Glarus Alps and Grisons Alps. We encountered low-lying clouds, so our views were somewhat obscured. But it created an impressive, eerie ambience, which Beck related to Mordor!

From Wildmadfurggeli, you'll see Wildmadseeli, a small lake formed by flowing water across the plateau.

You'll soon pass Wildmadseeli as you descend the southern face of Wildmadfurggeli. The scenery around this point of the walk, before arriving at Gelb Chopf, is truly breathtaking.

Gelb Chopf

Eventually, you'll reach a mountain pass called Gelb Chopf. From this pass, you'll enjoy epic views of Chüebodensee. You'll also see the impressive Gelb Chopf ridge. Undoubtedly, the Gelb Chopf ridge is one of the most epic ridges in Glarnerland.

Chüebodensee

As mentioned, on the usual Kärpfwanderung route, you'll enjoy views of Chüebodensee from Gelb Chopf but won't see it again as you continue. However, this usual route was closed. So we had to take the longer route back to Ampächli, which was via Chüebodensee.

This alternate route via Chüebodensee is a great way to walk along the beautiful lake. So even if the usual route is open, you may want to take this other route to enjoy more of Chüebodensee.

Another option, if the usual route is open, is to do a quick out-and-back between Gleb Chopf and Chüebodensee. That way, you can explore more of the lake, but then take the quicker, more direct route back to Ampächli.

Ampächli

During your descent to Ampächli, you'll enjoy stunning panoramic views of the Glarus Alps. You'll enjoy these same views from the wonderfully situated Bergrestaurant Ampächli.

Bergrestaurant Ampächli

Arriving at Bergrestaurant Ampächli marked the end of the Kärpfwanderung. We met Beck's parents and our seven-month-old baby boy there, who was fast asleep!

Beck and I enjoyed a nice (but pricey) meal and drink. Given the huge trampolining area, playground and activities on offer, we agreed this would be a great place to revisit once our boy was a bit older.

Elm

After dining at Bergrestaurant Ampächli, we took the cable car (Sportbahnen Elm) down to Elm. We paid CHF 16 each for a one-way ticket. Visit the official website for the most up-to-date ticket prices and timetable.

Other Trail Variations and Nearby Options

We hope this blog post has inspired you to do the Kärpfwanderung. However, some route variations and other options in the Kärpf area may suit you better. We'll briefly touch upon these options.

• You may want to hike in reverse (Ampächli to Mettmen). We considered this for various reasons but decided to follow the suggested route direction, discussed in this blog post.
• Kärpfbrugg Rundweg (Trail No.818): this is one of the most popular hikes in the northern Kärpf area. It's a circular hike from Mettmen via Kärpfbrugg, a 50 metre wide natural stone bridge. An easier option is a short loop walk around Mettmensee.
• Chüebodensee - Wildmadfurggeli via Ampächli: this is one of the most popular route options in the southern Kärpf area. It's a circular walk from Ampächli via Chüebodensee and Wildmadfurggeli.
• Alta Via Elm: we were tempted to do this short and flat one-way 6km hike between Ampächli and Obererbs after doing the Kärpfwanderung. But the logistics of doing it after the Kärpfwanderung were a bit tricky, so we skipped it.

Where to Stay Nearby

Of course, the best and most convenient accommodation option for hiking in Kärpf would be Berghotel Mettmen. As mentioned, we ate in the hotel's restaurant and got a glimpse of the hotel. Undoubtedly, a stay here would be out of this world!

However, we were exploring the entire canton of Glarus during our hiking trip, so we decided not to base ourselves in the mountains. Instead, we stayed in a small, picturesque village called Filzbach in Glarus Nord, just above the Glarus valley.

To find the perfect place to stay, we recommend using Booking.com.